An international brew - Canadian scientist takes on Taupō beer

The young brewmaster hoped for a six-month holiday job when she arrived at Lakeman Brewing Co’s rustic rural headquarters neat Taupō in April 2023. Instead, she’s been appointed Lakeman’s head brewer and now has several New Zealand beer title wins under her belt. 

Laura developed a taste for craft beer while studying science at Queen’s University, two blocks from Canada’s Lake Ontario. Her timing was unfortunate though; the financially-stretched student had to abandon her favourite tipple soon after discovering it.  

“I realised it was too expensive and I had to go back to drinking the cheap stuff,” she says. 

Beer farming down under 

While the quality of her drinks improved after graduation, employment options remained hazy. Fellow graduates left for medical school, teaching or laboratory jobs but none of these prospects appealed.  

Eventually, after a friend pointed out her thirst for discussing and consuming boutique beer, Laura enrolled in a 16-month brewmaster’s diploma course.  

“Yes, I am definitely using my science degree. The lab stuff, knowing about yeasts. It definitely helps.” 

The speedy brewer – she is a former competitive cross country runner – worked for several craft breweries in the Canadian province of Ontario before deciding she was ready to travel. New Zealand airline tickets were already booked when an internet search led her to Lakeman, with its appealing location on a sheep and beef farm beside Lake Taupō. 

Steak pies and lake swims 

An online interview netted a job offer and her grand travel plans halted in the Central North Island. 

“I was enjoying the work, and lake life really drew me in,” she says of her decision to stay on. “Being able to swim, boat. I love running the trail along the lake. And the view of the mountains. When I was driving down and saw that, holy crap.” 

Laura has become increasingly entwined in the community, with flourishing friendships and a spot on a social women’s football team. She has also learned to fish, hiked Tongariro Alpine Crossing and developed a taste for local Paetiki Bakery Café steak and cheese pies. 

“Savoury pies are not a thing in Canada, and they’re so hearty and good on a rainy day.” 

Her workplace, on a family farm, has meant a considerable change of pace for the urban-raised Canadian. 

Earning muscles and medals 

Lakeman beer is brewed in much smaller batches than she was accustomed to and the process is far less mechanised, more hands-on. 

“Now, what I’m doing is way more manual. I’ve got muscles. I can now drive a tractor, swing a bag of grain. It’s more hand crafted, literally.” 

Under Laura’s watch the brewery team scooped a swag of medals at the 2025 New Zealand Beer Awards, including three golds in the popular IPA class. Her pina colada-inspired sour beer proved a sell-out hit and the new Fruit Loop hazy IPA was also her idea.  

Lakeman’s Primate Pilsner was also named among the New World Top 25 Beers & Ciders for the third year running. 

Pure lake water 

She relishes being able to use pristine lake water – accessed via a bore on the farm – for the brewing process. And likes having access to New Zealand-grown hops. 

“Water chemistry is a big thing in brewing and the water here is incredibly pure. It makes my life easy.”

Laura

The circular nature of the business appeals, too; waste grain from the brewing process becomes cattle food, and beef from the farm is used in burgers at Jimmy Coops Bar & Restaurant in downtown Taupō. 

“When I eat there, I like to mix it up but I do often go for the fat daisy smash burger, with smoked pastrami. And I’m a sucker for their truffle fries, washed down with Lakeman beer of course.” 

Taking a chance 

She considers herself fortunate to work for Lakeman owners James and Elissa Cooper, saying they took a chance by appointing her to the head brewer role. 

“Elissa and James took me under their wing. They have definitely helped with making Taupō feel like a second home to me and being comfortable living on the other side of the world. Considering I am young and still fairly new to the industry, I’m pretty happy and proud of where I ended up today.” 

She says everyone in the small team is passionate about the parts they play to produce the beer. “And anything we’re expected to do in our job, especially some of the less glamorous parts of brewing, James is right in there helping us out.” 

Laura’s favourite local finds around Taupō 

When friends or family visit from Canada, Laura has a few ‘must do’s’ close to town that include:  

Walk: Mt Tauhara. It’s a cool trail and on a clear day, there are stunning views of the lake and mountains. It’s so, so pretty. Or the walk to Huka Falls or Aratiatia Rapids – I’d never seen anything like that before. 

Coffee: Either Sacred Grounds or Bubu Coffee Roasters. Though on Sundays, I typically meet a friend and grab coffee at Steaming Bean before walking along the waterfront to the market. 

Soak: Wairakei Terraces hot pools, especially on a rainy day. 

Bar: Two Mile Sailing Club. It’s a great place to watch the sun set over the water and they sell Lakeman beer there, in cans. For Friday post-work drinks or weekends on the outdoor patio, it’s Mole & Chicken for a Guinness and some curly fries. 

Running route: The quieter end of the lakefront trail, away from town towards Two Mile and Five Mile Bay.