Insider guide: How to walk the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in winter

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of New Zealand's most iconic walks — a “Great Walk” in fact — drawing visitors from around the world in every season. While thousands experience it during summer, winter transforms the landscape into something altogether different.

Snow-covered volcanic peaks, crisp alpine air and ever-changing mountain conditions create an unforgettable adventure. They also mean winter requires a different approach to safely tackle what is widely considered New Zealand's greatest day hike.

To help answer the questions we hear most often, Love Taupō caught up with Stewart Barclay, founder of Adrift Outdoors New Zealand, who has spent nearly three decades guiding visitors safely across the mountain in every season

The maunga in winter

Winter doesn't simply change the scenery; it changes the entire experience. Snow, ice, alpine weather, specialist equipment and shorter daylight hours all come into play, raising plenty of questions for first-time winter visitors. We put some of the most common questions to Stewart.

LT: How would you describe the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in winter to someone who has only seen it in summer?

Stewart: “Everything the summer Crossing offers, plus snow and ice, and minus the crowds. Those would be the two key factors.”

LT: What makes it such a special winter experience?

Stewart: “It’s an amazing 20-kilometre walk that gives you access to the alpine environment relatively easily. Not many people get to walk in the alpine environment in a controlled manner.”

LT: Does the snow completely change the feel of the day?

Stewart: “Experiencing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing with snow underfoot really is quite a novel experience for everybody we guide over it.”

The Crossing begins at around 1,100 metres, climbs to almost 1,900 metres and then descends to approximately 750 metres. It is a substantial alpine hike in any season, with winter adding another layer to an already memorable journey.

Why winter changes everything

The route itself may be familiar, but the conditions can be vastly different. Snow, ice, exposure and limited daylight all influence how the day is planned and managed.

LT: How long does a guided winter crossing usually take?

Stewart: “It takes about eight to eight and a half hours when we’re doing it in winter. In summer, we could do it in seven or seven and a half hours. It’s about an hour longer in winter.”

LT: Why is it important to begin early?

Stewart: “Winter daylight hours are pretty short. We like to get off by five o’clock, when it starts getting dark, getting colder from about four o’clock in the afternoon.”

LT: What’s your biggest planning advice for visitors?

Stewart: “If you can, allow at least a spare day, so that if today’s no good, tomorrow might be better.”

Booking some flexibility into your itinerary is important. Mountain weather can change quickly, and a day that isn’t suitable for completing the Crossing can be followed by excellent conditions.

Safety first — use a guide

Winter isn’t only about following the track from one end to the other. Experienced guides assess the weather, snow and ice conditions, equipment, fitness and available daylight throughout the day.

They also know when it is safe to continue and when the best decision is to turn around.

LT: Why is going guided so important in winter?

Stewart: “The big thing in winter is safety.”

LT: What can go wrong when people don’t have suitable equipment or experience?

Stewart: “We see a lot of people in the shoulder seasons that go up there in inadequate boots. They’re walking up on ice and slipping a wee bit, but they’re still walking up. Then they get to a point where they’re stuck, and they can’t go down and they can’t go up.”

No alpine experience? No problem

Crampons, helmets and ice axes can sound intimidating to first-time winter visitors, but previous mountaineering experience isn’t required. Guides fit the equipment, explain how it works and provide instruction throughout the day.

LT: Do visitors need previous alpine experience?

Stewart: “Everybody we take is a novice.”

LT: Are crampons and ice axes as intimidating as they sound?

Stewart: “Everybody thinks, ‘Oh my God, crampons and ice axes.’ They think it’s hanging off a cliff, chucking an ice axe in. No, it’s not like that at all.”

LT: How would you explain what the equipment actually does?

Stewart: “I compare it to walking across a greasy footy pitch with your springs on. That’s what the crampons do, and the ice axe is basically a walking stick.”

LT: What matters more than experience?

Stewart: “Fitness. It is a 20-kilometre hike, and it’s not a hike along a flat piece of tarmac. It is over a mountain.”

Visitors should be able to walk at a slow but steady pace for around eight hours. Stewart compares the distance to completing a first half marathon, with the added challenge of climbing and descending a mountain.

What does Adrift provide?

Adrift Outdoors New Zealand operates a complete outfitting service from its base near the boundary of Tongariro National Park.

LT: What clothing and equipment can visitors access?

Stewart: “You can turn up in your Bali beachwear and we’ll get you dressed for the winter from there.”

The team can provide:

• Winter hiking boots
• Fleece layers
• Raincoats and waterproof pants
• Gloves and beanies
• Crampons
• Ice axes
• Helmets

Visitors are fitted at the Adrift shop before receiving a safety briefing and travelling with their guides to the start of the track.

A few things worth knowing before you book

Allow some flexibility

• Keep at least one spare day available in case the weather isn’t suitable on your preferred date.

Fitness matters

• No alpine experience is required, but you should be prepared to walk steadily for around eight hours across mountain terrain.

The right equipment is essential

• Suitable boots, clothing, crampons, an ice axe and a helmet are all part of a properly equipped winter experience.

Completing the track isn’t guaranteed

• Guides may adjust the route or turn around when conditions require it. The goal is a safe and memorable mountain experience

Plan and book your winter hike

Visitors can self-drive to the Adrift Outdoors New Zealand base near Tongariro National Park, where the team provides clothing, equipment, instruction and transport to and from the track.

For visitors staying in Taupō without their own vehicle, an additional pickup service is available with prior arrangement. Once guests arrive at the Adrift base, the team manages the full experience, from fitting equipment and providing the safety briefing to guiding the hike and returning everyone to the shop afterwards.

With the right preparation, equipment and experienced guides alongside you, it can be one of the most memorable ways to experience Tongariro National Park.

The maunga is calling!